
I never eat asparagus without feeling profoundly grateful.
Asparagus grew in my mother’s garden when I was little, an early harbinger of spring. I’m sure my mother was grateful as well, to see them sticking out of the ground each year. She tells me they were so tender she never bothered to cook them. I don’t actually remember the spears themselves, I mostly remember the delicate ferny forest that was formed when the asparagus went to seed. My strongest asparagus memory took place many years later, miles away from my childhood home.
It was a sunny morning in late May when I left the small eastern Washington town where I had gone to college for the last time. I had graduated just days earlier, walking across the stage in my cap and gown in front of my family and fellow classmates, bobby pins stuck uncomfortably into my head to keep the funny mortarboard from slipping off. There had been parties, speeches, congratulations, and packing up my small apartment. Now I was heading south—home to California—with most of my worldly belongings jammed into the back of the car.
The road out of Walla Walla leads south and west, through rolling farmland and toward the Columbia River. In the three years I had spent there I hadn’t often driven this route. If I left town I usually went north, for skiing or camping in the Blue Mountains and bicycle rides through rolling hills covered in wheat. I didn’t know this low, flat farmland well.
That morning was clear and sunny and I was full of adventure and excitement, both for the roadtrip before me and for my adult, post-college life, stretching out like a magic carpet. The exams were over, the infernal papers, the required classes. Sure I was nervous about what might lie ahead, but that was part of the excitement. On that golden morning, zipping past open countryside with the windows down and the music up loud, I felt like I could be anything.
That is when I saw them, off in the fields to my right as I zoomed by, the farm workers.
They were bent over, their arms stretching to the ground. Every foot or so they reached down with their left hand to grasp a spear coming out of the ground and used a metal tool in their right hand to sever the stalk at the base, They were picking asparagus, carefully, painstakingly, one by one. Each spear was another stretch to the ground, another thrust with the right hand, another aching back. I had never thought much about where asparagus came from, how they were harvested, I never stopped to consider that each spear represented backbreaking labor for someone.

This photo and article about farmworkers ran in the newsletter put out by the Seattle area PCC coop stores this spring. It is exactly the scene I had driven past that May morning, years ago.
And there I was, in my fancy car (not my own, but mine for the driving), with my newly minted degree that represented a tuition outlay far beyond what these farm workers might earn in many years, a lifetime, perhaps. I felt instantly humbled, aware of my own privilege, of the conspicuousness of my own good fortune in this lifetime. Whatever trials I have had in my life, I have been given great gifts.
Perhaps the greatest gift I have been given was my education—this degree that lay newly glittering in the palm of my hand was the culmination of years of educational opportunities that are not afforded everyone. Sure I was thousands of dollars in debt for that degree, but it was money I would be able to pay back over the years with earnings from the better jobs my education would allow me. I have been given great gifts.
I learned all sorts of things in college, but I learned something far more important that day on the road out of town.

I think of that day each spring, when I begin to see asparagus in the market. I don’t know if each spear is still harvested by hand, but it doesn’t matter—plenty of our food is, probably more than you or I would ever guess. The amount of work that goes into the fruits and vegetables we buy for pennies—work from people who are too often paid only pennies for it—is something I try to keep in mind always. How much more careful might we be if we knew each apple, peach, or peapod was picked by hand? Would we be more likely to treat them like the treasure they are? Would we let these fruits and vegetables rot in our refrigerators?
Each spear, picked by hand, with aching back.
I thought of this more recently, when I had the good fortune to spend a weekday afternoon hanging out and eating at Pizzetta 211, one of my favorite little gems of a restaurant in San Francisco. They had an asparagus appetizer on the menu, fat spears bathed in a Meyer lemon vinaigrette and scattered with a dice of salty preserved lemon. It was served with toasted bread spread with buttery Bellwether Crescenza cheese and it was delicious. The food and that afternoon—when lunch stretches to hours and the light filters in through big windows and you are well fed but generally left to you own devices to chat and laugh with your dining companion—is another thing to be grateful for.

But what can we do to make a difference in how our food is grown and harvested, to protect the people whose hard labor keep us fed? The best thing I find is to learn about where your food comes from and who is growing it. Shopping at farmers’ markets, if they are available to you, makes this easier. Buying directly from the producer allows you to ask questions, to learn about their operation and their values.
For years I’ve bought from Swanton Berry Farm, in the Bay Area, and always choose to support them. The berries are delicious—no doubt about it—but I also like knowing that I am supporting the first organic berry farm in California and the first organic farm to unionize. They offer stock ownership to employees, a medical plan, retirement, and vacation and sick leave. They pay their workers hourly rather than for produce picked, so that their workers are not tempted to risk injury for a few extra bucks. For me, that makes it all taste even better.
Another thing you can do is to support farmworker organizations such as the United Farm Workers, you can sign up on their website to receive email updates. At the moment they are fighting for justice for a 17-year-old girl, Maria Jimenez, who died from heat stroke while working in a Stockton (California) area vineyard this spring. The labor contractor she was working for did not provide the protection from the weather (required by law) and when she was taken to the hospital she had an internal body temperature of 108.4. The vineyard she was working in provides grapes for the Charles Shaw Wines (otherwise know as Two Buck Chuck), which is distributed exclusively by Trader Joe’s. UAF is sponsoring an email campaign to ask Trader Joe’s to support humane working conditions. If you’d like, you can participate here. There are other organizations working for farmerworkers rights as well.
You can buy organic. When I was growing up my family participated in the boycott of table grapes, due to the harsh chemicals used to grow them and the fact that the farm workers who pick them were growing sick and their babies were being born with missing limbs due to the pesticide exposure. I was saddened to hear that this sort of thing is still happening—three deformed babies born within weeks of each other to families who worked for the same company and lived in the same camp only yards apart. Buying organic means that your produce is protected from some of the harshest agricultural pesticides, and that the people who pick it are protected as well.

It’s tempting to ignore these issues—I sometimes would like to. No one wants to look at how children are being born deformed because their parents are working to grow tomatoes that will feed other people's children. We like cheap food, but how can we take care of those who grow it for us? It’s one of those many-layered situations where there is no clear or easy solution for how to fix it (the labor contractor that Maria Jimenez worked for has been shut down, but it’s likely they will resurface under another name). I do my best to stay informed, ask questions, make better choices, and be aware that I am benefiting from the hard work of others.
I am sure the farmworkers I saw that morning barely noticed the car going by on the road out of town, but I have never forgotten them. I don’t suspect that I ever will.

ASPARAGUS WITH MEYER LEMON VINAIGRETTE AND PRESERVED LEMON
Adapted from a dish a Pizzetta 211, San Francisco
This makes for a dramatic presentation, especially on a large platter, and would be a lovely dish for a spring dinner or luncheon. Alternately, just make it for yourself or a loved one. My mother was visiting Seattle the day I made this and, well, she practically licked her plate clean. You can serve it on toast or just as a composed salad.
One generous bunch of asparagus, wooden stems removed, lightly steamed.
1 tbs and 1 tsp olive oil
1 tbs and 1 tsp lemon juice (Meyer lemon, preferably)
1 tsp chopped preserved Meyer lemon rind (more as desired)
salt and pepper to taste (careful to taste before you add salt, the preserved lemons are quite salty)
Whisk dressing ingredients until smooth and drizzle on cooked asparagus. Toss carefully with hands or tongs to distribute the dressing evenly.
If desired, serve with toast and soft cheese. Pizetta 211 uses Bellwether Crescenza, I used a soft goat cheese when I made this dish. Both were wonderful.
