4.20.2008

No Words

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I was all ready to put up a post—really I was. It was one of my usuals: some sort of cooking quest, a couple of foibles along the way, a recipe at the end. Maybe it was even a little bit funny—one can hope, right?

I was all ready to do it, then I started reading the paper.

Food shortages are the news of the day—real, serious food shortages. There’s the drought in Australia that’s shutting down rice mills. The country of Japan has run out of butter. And then there’s Haiti. From an article in the New York Times:

"In Haiti, where three-quarters of the population earns less than $2 a day and one in five children is chronically malnourished, the one business booming amid all the gloom is the selling of patties made of mud, oil and sugar, typically consumed only by the most destitute.

“'It’s salty and it has butter and you don’t know you’re eating dirt,' said Olwich Louis Jeune, 24, who has taken to eating them more often in recent months. 'It makes your stomach quiet down'…

"Meanwhile, most of the poorest of the poor suffer silently, too weak for activism or too busy raising the next generation of hungry. In the sprawling slum of Haiti’s Cité Soleil, Placide Simone, 29, offered one of her five offspring to a stranger. 'Take one,' she said, cradling a listless baby and motioning toward four rail-thin toddlers, none of whom had eaten that day. 'You pick. Just feed them.'”

How can I write about silly kitchen escapades when people are eating dirt, trying to calm their aching bellies?

Throughout history there’s always been hunger, I realize that. I know that in the grand scheme of things I have been fortunate beyond belief, rarely having to think where my next meal might come from. But things feel tenuous to me these days—perhaps also to you. Call it the climate change, the oil crisis, the biofuel situation (don't get me started), but there are those who say it will impact us all soon, if it hasn't already. I don’t know about you, but it makes me want to dig up my teeny-tiny lawn and plant cabbages.

Right after I send all the rice I can find to Haiti.

At a time like this, I just don’t have it in my heart to tell you how dreamy French feta cheese is when you mix it with fresh herbs and heirloom tomatoes and how you really must give it a try. It all feels so superficial suddenly.

This is something I struggle with sometimes. When people learn that I keep a website and ask me what it’s about, I always feel awkward when I say it’s about food. It sounds superficial—and yet, at the same time, I know that food connects us powerfully. It is a vehicle for traditions and culture, a way for us to celebrate, to care for ourselves and each other. I know that where we get our food and how it’s grown is an important and vital issue—one that we have to reckon with in a serious way right now. And while I may not have suffered real hunger, I know it can fuel wars, overthrow political parties, change the landscape as we know it. Food is important, lack of food even more so.

I read something else recently, a short piece by Felicia Sullivan that reminded me again of the importance of food (and made me look forward to reading her new book). I’d recommend reading the whole beautiful thing, but here is a teaser:

"Now, standing in the grocery store, I stared at the rows of sugar, cinnamon sticks, and flour, and I remembered why I set out to bake in the first place: to make mistakes and learn from them, to realize that even with the best ingredients and precise measurements, the perfect cake might fail to materialize. I couldn’t control how the flour was milled, but I could revel in the process of making something from nothing. It’s the journey that’s miraculous, not the results."

This food thing, it has depth and breadth.

I’ll be back soon—writing about food and life, I’m sure. But these days I’m feeling a bit more sober about things. Feeling like I want to live close to the ground (I haven’t been planting cabbages, but there have been some kale seedlings, arugula, broccoli, leeks).

And—as if in answer to my concerns—this weekend in the New York Times Michael Pollan is telling us to plant a garden. Because food is important, never more so when there isn’t enough to fill the plate.

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38 comments:

Beastmomma said...

It is good to have perspective about how we potray our love and passion in a world that is often deprived of both.

TadMack said...

Thanks for this, Tea.
The word 'tenuous' fits. We're wondering -- a lot of things, not least of which is should we even be here indulging ourselves, when so much is falling apart... thought-provoking, and thanks for the excellent links.

M-H said...

There is an argument that rice should never have been grown in Australia, which was far too dry for this crop in the first place. Rice growing here has caused quite a lot of problems with the water supply for other users.

K & S said...

I couldn't believe we had a shortage until I needed to buy some :( I may turn to making some because the prices are atrocious...

Lydia (The Perfect Pantry) said...

It is horrifying to read of the food shortages in other parts of the world. Does that make what we do -- writing about food -- feel frivolous? Sometimes. But food is one of the things that will bind us to each other in times of difficulty as well as in times of abundance. And, as you say, it is the ties that are important.

miss yerem said...

dear tea,
have been following your blog for quite a while and like it very much. your post today is true and sad. i believe that this is a general conflict: we,who have so much,feel it is inappropriate to write about " fancy food".i think it depends on how we tackle the subject: it is important for us to realise how fortunate we are and to appreciate it.i try to teach my seven-year-old son as much as i can about food and he has taken to it (thankfully) ,planting his own pumpkins and herbs and tomatoes and knowing that there is more to apples than granny smith. even if we cannot send all our rice to tahiti we can be grateful and happy and care about the food we have-that in itself cannot be a bad thing. best from berlin,anja

We Are Never Full said...

Thanks for making me think very deep about this issue (even as tired as I am on a Monday morning). I too feel torn about my love of eating and cooking when there is some serious food issues going on in the world. Not to mention, all the ridiculous consumption of all the other sh&t that people don't need - gadgets, furniture, houses, cars, etc.). But, also, you hit the nail on the head about food - we're not writing about our love of KFC, McDonalds and Burger king. We're writing about the food that bridges cultures and countries. You're balancing that out by bringing the food shortages in the world up in posts. Keeping all of us informed.

I think it is important to reflect on the reality of things, and to find ways to help others. There's been a major poverty and homeless issue here in America for years, but I still didn't feel bad about goign out to dinner. But, I did give back by volunteering at soup kitchens and giving money to food organizations.

I think it's all about balance. And awareness. Maybe I'm trying to convince myself here that it's ok to food blog during all these hard times? Possibly, but you should be very proud of yourself for making more people aware. That, to me, is one of the most important things that can be done right now.

I'm embarrassed to even sign my blog name (we are never full)... sounds kind of wrong right now, huh?
amy @ we are never full

Julie said...

This has been on my mind. Well said. Thank you.

Zarah Maria said...

I hear ya, Tea, I hear ya - so many well said things in there, including the one about it feeling more than a little silly when people ask you what your blog is about and you whisper: food.

There are so many things I feel like writing to you, but what IS there to say? We are immensely lucky to have the choice, variety and abundance that we have and complaining about the increasing food prices just feels very... spoiled. We can eat, unlike so many others.

Just thought I'd say so, so you know you're not all alone out there.

Zoomie said...

Tea, this is exactly why I come here - to touch base with your mind. Thank you both for writing and not writing your usual posts.

Aran said...

Powerful story Tea. I was actually talking about a good friend about this today. We are an overindulgent society and I carry this guilt with me everyday. Do I really need to be baking everyday when some people are eating dirt? Sad.

charity said...

This is indeed something hard and good to think about. For a light hearted way to help a little, check out www.freerice.com

charity

Kate said...

My dear Tea,

I struggle with this issue often. How can I blog about spring asparagus in times like these? Even the altruism of institutions like Slow Food seems frivolous when I compare it to global need.

I look at a map of America's massive imports and exports, however, and I keep returning to the idea that these issues are all interconnected. With our fraught economy that makes well-traveled processed food cheap; with the American religion of consumption; with our top-dog self-entitlement; and without a sense of seasonality and a food culture to take pride in - Americans eat whatever, whenever, for no good reason at all, and that act is part of what stimulates these food crises elsewhere, as those people feed us as their children starve.

As food bloggers and agriculture enthusiasts, perhaps it is our responsibility to provide that culture, to offer those food traditions, and to raise awareness about the real pleasures of the table - rarity, community. The pleasure of preparing food, of learning about it, maybe even of growing it.

I hope so.

And not just because I want ot hear about that kale of yours. ;)

And not just because

Lael said...

thank you, tea. I think it's so important to keep this perspective in a culture where skipping one meal and experiencing a grumbly tummy can bring on moodiness. I think we need to remember how much we're blessed and act in humble gratitude and generosity. I hope this is a conversation that always continues in the food blog world.

Anonymous said...

Serious words become you, Tea, every bit as much as the more "frivolous". And what of us readers who spend daily time *perusing* food blogs? As "we are never full" said, it's all about the balance. We are blessed indeed to be able to make choices in our privileged lives, but to make them unaware of alternative realities? Not a good thing. Thanks for keeping us grounded.

Carroll

Tableau Vivante said...

I actually struggle with this myself and have been wanting to write something, anything, about this issue. I know I like writing about food. But the context seems to be shifting on me.

Thank you for your eloquence.

Lyra said...

You say it all better than I ever could. I completely agree with your concerns about the state of the world, and the state of food. I am going to post with a link to this right now if that is ok with you.

Chennette said...

Thank you for writing this post, and doing it so well! (I got here from Rice and Beans)
I ended up with a mostly food blog, because it was (to me) a relatively non-controversial issue and unrelated to my day-job. But the whole food crisis has given me a lot to read, think and talk about, but difficult to say on my blog without breaking my own rules.
Thanks again.

Cynthia said...

Like Chennette, I got here from Rice and Beans, your post is eloquent. I too have been struggling about continuing to write about the joys of food and memories where there are so many without...

LexiesMom said...

Beautiful post.

LBK said...

Another great post, Tea. I couldn't believe my eyes when I read in that NYT's article that Haitians were eating mud for lack of anything else. The food shortages (and subsequent riots) around the globe are terribly upsetting, especially when viewed from the perspective of countries that are guilty of the worst overconsumption.

Thank you for your usual thoughtfulness.

The Irreverent Cook said...

Hi, Tea. I would say we [food bloggers] are a positive force, all things considered, wouldn't you? Your post was thought provoking, and I expounded more on the issue in my blog. Take solace, Tea, we are at the most minimal, not doing any harm, and in my opinion, doing much good =)

Liz said...

You're right - it's heartbreaking. Sometimes, the inequity pervading this world is just astounding. But I love that you're giving such respect, in such an eloquent way, to the hunger crisis on your foodie blog.

In the meantime, maybe we can all contribute in our own way. The UN's World Food Programme, for instance, is currently desperate for donations.

Check out www.wfp.org. :)

Maggie said...

I think we could all place an empty bowl somewhere in our kitchens or homes as a reminder to do all we possibly can for our global family.

Meg said...

Living in the midst of plentifully stocked grocery stores and farmer's markets, and reading about so many people at risk because of the rapid rise of food prices, can feel like a surreal contradiction. I rarely feel that I balance that contradiction- of my privelege and other people's deprivation- very well.

Taryn said...

What makes me angry is that people are going hungry, not because there is a shortage of food, but because politics are standing in the way.

Anita said...

the thing that makes me the angriest (much as I try to detach from things I cannot control) is knowing that rising food costs in the 1970s are what led to the disastrous food policies and subsidies the last time around.

When Americans panic about food costs, they'll put more pressure on lawmakers to bring prices back in line with their (ridiculously cheap) expectations, which will lead to even more f*cked-up food supply issues. Dark days, indeed.

Hopie said...

Well, Tea, I'm not the only one say that you're not alone in having this sort of reflection. It can be so depressing to think on a world scale, because how can we fix the whole world?! I mean I'd like to, trust me, but I haven't found the right magic potion yet!

I try to concentrate on what I can do in my community for the environment and the people there because at least I feel like I CAN do something. Food is anything but trivial - it's basic to our survival and an amazing force of community - so talking about food, well, that can be important too.

Anonymous said...

Excellent post, but I would like to add one thing. Those rows of food products in US grocery stores.. they still cost money, and too many working poor American citizens, and their children are less able each week to afford to have a full belly, let alone the fruits and vegetables they need to be healthy.

It was reported a year and a half ago, that the numbers of poor American citizens being diagnosed with malnutrition is greater than those during the great depression. Each week more jobs are outsourced and also Americans are displaced in the workplace. We don't have a worker shortage, we have wealthy people and corporations who want to gut American wages to squeeze more profits for themselves.

America might have wealthy people and profitable corporations, but we also have far too many poor citizens of our own, who have human rights considerations as well. You should ask yourself why the MSM never reports on them or their realities.

Di said...

Until recently, I lived in Australia where the drought has driven food prices up, up and to crazy new levels.

Food isn't supreficial, eating together brings people together and that should never be overlooked. But it's good to have some perspective to better appreciate how truly blessed we are.

Well said.

Cuisine Heart said...

Though this is the first entry I have read of yours, I feel that I have immediately found someone who I want to hear more from. You have such a clear and profound voice. I can tell you I will be visiting often.

I find I struggle with wanting to explore what food and ingredients have to offer us, while having the knowledge that I am priviledged to be able to do so. That I feel guilty when I walk away from a meal feeling full or if I let a piece of fruit go bad in the fridge. It's posts like yours that keep us aware, balanced, conscious. Thank you.

Helene said...

I enjoyed reading this post.

Shayne said...

great post and you are right and we just have to do what we can to make a differance, this year I am planting a larger garden and cutting my meat consumtion by 30% and I hope more by next year and I have worked hard for the past year to be sure to only buy what we will eat so that I am not being waistfull and if more tried just a little it would make a big difference. I am happy to see others are aware too,thank you.

Janna said...

Beautifully written. Thank you for this post.

Athena Lam said...

That was a great post.

I think we need pieces to build on first - like recipes and stories about baking - but they're not meaningful unto themselves unless we can find where our connections and gratifications are.

It's great to hear your thoughts that express mine, but with different words. I think food makes as well as reflect who we are: whether we care about it or not, and if we care, why. At once it is spiritual because of all the art you can do with it, but on its basis, is that it is an essential substance.

There was a NYT article talking about rice shortage shooting prices up in San Fran a day or so ago.

M said...

Hi Tea,

Once again, you have beautifully articualted your point with a thought provoking post. It is easy to feel helpless sometimes but it is critical that we think globally and act locally. We each have a part to play whether supporting local farmers, minimising our individual footprint, making ethical decisions in purchasing etc. - a journey of a thousand miles begins with single step. Your post has heightened awareness in many readers so don't feel in any way that yours is a frivolous or unimportant contribution. This blog brings enjoyment to many (myself included) and if you can prick our conscience from time to time, that makes it all the more absorbing. You are valued and appreciated and you do make a difference.

Rittenhouse said...

I really enjoyed reading your comments regarding how to change our thought and behaviors toward generating waste. Very thought provoking!

MamaBird said...

Ah, yes, definitely on my brain. Even the children at school tonight for an international dinner (mmmm) were raising money with their bake sale for the earthquake victims in China. The food and disaster crises at the moment are compelling...I love how your first commenter put it, "having perspective about how we portray our love and passion...."